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During a performance last week at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, an ancient theatre at the foot of the Acropolis in Athens, dancers wearing head harnesses mounted with torches shone lights on models wearing spectacular jewellery, to music by French violinist Renaud Capuçon. The pieces on display were from, Deep Time, the latest high jewellery collection by Louis Vuitton’s artistic director of watches and jewellery, Francesca Amfitheatrof. With 180 pieces in total, it is Louis Vuitton’s largest high jewellery collection to date — and signals the luxury brand’s continued ambitions for the category.

“We have the vision, the ambition and we have the backing to do it,” Amfitheatrof tells Vogue Business during its two-day high jewellery presentation.

Jewellery is a small part of the house’s total sales but given the scale of Louis Vuitton (more than €20 billion in 2022) even a small portion means sizable business and it’s the fastest-growing category. Still, in focusing on this field Louis Vuitton has to navigate an increasingly competitive environment. It is not only up against specialised jewellers such as Cartier (the largest jeweller, with estimated sales surpassing €10 billion) and Tiffany (which, under the ownership of LVMH, is upping its high jewellery game and expanding to new categories), but also a growing number of fine and high jewellery collections from fashion brands.

Amfitheatrof is confident. The Greece event (held first at the the Amanzoe hotel in the Peloponnese, then in Athens for the Odeon of Herodes Atticus performance) drew a mix of press and celebrities including actors Ana de Armas, Léa Seydoux and Urassaya Sperbund, followed by VIP clients in the succeeding days. Guests came to see pieces such as the ‘Rupture’ necklace of yellow sapphires, Mexican opals and zircons; and the ‘Wave’, which features an exceptional sapphire from Sri Lanka.

“We buy the best colour stones, We have the most amazing gemologist” said Amfitheatrof. “We make quick decisions. We don’t have this huge structure, we can really be very nimble, which is important when buying stones because it’s quite competitive and we buy the best of the best of the best. That has grown in people’s understanding of Vuitton that they are going to invest in a stone. It’s one of the best investments you can make. One of these coloured diamonds is better than investing in the stock market.”