Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella Expands EDP Collection as Business Grows

MILAN — Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella is expanding its eau de parfum offering with three new fragrances, dubbed “Bizzarria,” “Magnolia” and “Gelsomino.”

As reported, the Florentine apothecary launched its first edp in its 800-year history last year with “L’Iris,” a scent intended to celebrate its roots by picking as main ingredient the lily, the emblem of the Tuscan city.

The brand’s chief executive officer Gian Luca Perris said the launch was among the main drivers of the firm’s acceleration in 2022, when sales climbed 56 percent to 46 million euros compared to the previous year.

Such a performance is contributing to Perris’ optimism about the new additions as well, which were already planned and add to the olfactory collection titled “Medici Gardens.”

Perris underscored the cultural value of the project in creating awareness around the fragrance heritage of both Santa Maria Novella and Florence by spotlighting rare botanical species dating back to the Medici era. In particular, the company takes inspiration from the gardens of a dozen villas built between the 15^th and 17^th centuries by the Medici family and named UNESCO heritage sites in 2013.

“These places are heaven for those who do my job,” said Perris, who is also a master perfumer himself. “Plus they represent the perfect match with us, as historically the Medicis had ties with Santa Maria Novella.” 

To wit, the company was founded by Dominican friars after they arrived in Florence in 1221 and settled in the Santa Maria Novella location, cultivating herbs to prepare medicines for their monastery’s infirmary. After manufacturing successful recipes such as aromatic waters and a bergamot-based fragrance for the queen of France Catherine de’ Medici in 1533 — which is still a bestseller — the apothecary opened to the public, officially launching as a commercial activity in 1612.

The new edp “Bizzarria” refers to the rare citrus fruit, one of the 600 species showcased in Villa Medicea in Castello, a 30-minute drive from Florence. Noticed for the first time in 1644 and not found again until 1980, this variation is known for being a mix of lemon, bitter orange and cedar, which don’t blend in a hybrid fruit (like in the case of bergamot) but co-exist in an unusually shaped fruit showing characteristics from each plant distinctly.

In addition to the Bizzarria citrus, the fragrance features neroli, ginger, cedarwood and musk, among other ingredients.

Similarly, the “Magnolia” scent is based on the flower covering the same villa’s façade and is blended with notes of geranium, amber and musk, among others. Combined with bergamot, mandarin, pink pepper and ylang ylang, a special type of jasmine flower takes center stage in “Gelsomino.”

Resembling more a rose, the Gelsomino del Granduca variety arrived in Florence as a gift to the Grand Duke of Tuscany Cosimo III de’ Medici from Goa in 1688. He dedicated a secret greenhouse to it, which Santa Maria Novella has now pledged to support with contributions to its structural restoration and botanical preservation. 

While bottled in the brand’s signature glass flacons, all the fragrances in the collection come in a new secondary packaging, a paper box inspired by those used in the 18^th century in Italy to case extracts and essential oils. The packaging nods to the company’s archives as it replicates the cover of a Santa Maria Novella catalogue from the late 1800s. 

Retailing at 160 euros and 245 euros for 50-ml. and 100-ml., respectively, the new scents launch at the Santa Maria Novella stores and corners in Italy this week, in France and the U.K. next week and in the U.S. in two weeks. The rollout in the wholesale channel will start from mid-July. 

To further mark the drop, an immersive installation will be staged through Nov. 12 at the brand’s main flagship in Via della Scala in Florence. The epitome of a unique customer experience with its Renaissance frescoed ceilings, bronzed angels and aromas lingering in the air from potpourri made with local herbs, the store will host “Blooming in Paradise,” an artwork commissioned from Felice Limosani that combines virtual images, sound and olfactory elements.

The goal is to further enhance the storytelling behind the brand and propel its experiential offering. In sync with this mission, Santa Maria Novella is looking to expand its distribution network of directly operated stores to better communicate its rich narrative to customers and further elevate its shopping experience. 

For example, a second unit in Rome will open in central Via del Babuino by the end of summer, while the brand’s first flagship in Paris will be unveiled by the end of 2023. Set to be located in Rue Saint-Honoré, opposite Saint Laurent, the unit will add to an existing corner at Le Bon Marché and distribution at key specialty stores, such as Nose.

These openings will follow recent ones in the U.K. and the U.S. As reported, last week Santa Maria Novella tied up with Harrods, building on its two London stores in Piccadilly Arcade and on Walton Street. Last month, the historic apothecary also opened a boutique at The Pierre hotel in Manhattan, marking its fifth flagship in the U.S.

Next up, new units will open in the Asia-Pacific region, which Perris said represents the second largest market for the brand after Europe and before the U.S.

Santa Maria Novella has three stores in China and two in Hong Kong at the moment, while the overall global standalone units and corners are more than 120.

As for the online channel, the company will unveil a revamped platform and e-commerce by the end of the month, aimed at offering an improved user experience and more information to customers. 

All these elements are expected to further fuel Santa Maria Novella’s growth, with sales expected to exceed 60 million euros this year, according to Perris.

The brand’s overall change of pace kickstarted following Italmobiliare’s takeover of the company in 2021. As reported, the investment group aimed to support the further development of what is considered a gem of the Italian beauty industry by enhancing its distribution network and brand awareness internationally.

Product-wise, a new course was initiated that same year with some products tweaked to meet current sustainability demands and the company opening up to newness by promoting its heritage. The approach culminated last year not only with the introduction of “L’Iris,” but also with the enhancement of its skin care offering with the launch of the “Idralia” line.

The introduction of the “Acqua di Rose” line in spring expanded the skin care assortment, which Perris said to attract younger customers to the brand, as it includes products addressing specific skin conditions. Yet the executive underscored the overall customer base remains cross-generational as it counts on many loyal clients still purchasing historic categories such as ambient fragrances and liqueurs. Santa Maria Novella has more than 600 products in its portfolio, encompassing scents, soaps, pomades, colognes and candles, all in its signature, old-school packaging.

Looking ahead, Perris plans to further scale the business. “This brand deserves much more; it’s probably the most beautiful and hidden gem among the Italian brands in the world. Who else can boast 800 years of carrying on the same business, in the same places, perpetuating such a rich tradition while continuing to innovate?” said Perris. 

“That’s our real challenge: don’t rest on our laurels and be just a museum that narrates what it has done for eight centuries but to keep researching and finding new inspirations and opportunities that are coherent with the brand,” he concluded.