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Does Brunswick East need another place to eat, drink and be merry? Absolutely, according to Kaidee Grzankowski, co-owner of forthcoming bar Maggie’s Snacks and Liquor.
“The area is awesome,” she says, ticking off beloved new neighbours including Etta, Teta Mona, Bluebonnet Barbecue, Old Palm Liquor and Waxflower. “But there’s no one that specialises in amazing high-end cocktails. That’s what we’re bringing.”
Her business partners include beverage director Alejandro Archibald, an experienced bartender (ex-Nomad) with a penchant for agave spirits, and Nathan Toleman, director of Mulberry Group, which has bars Lilac Wine and Dessous among its portfolio.
“I worked for Nathan at his very first cafe APTE more than 15 years ago,” says Grzankowski. “Over the years we’ve thrown different business ideas at each other. Finally, I told him about a concept Alejandro and I cooked up during COVID and next thing I know we’d taken on [a] site.”
The idea she brewed with Archibald was a 50-seat cocktail bar. “But Maggie’s will be four times that size,” she laughs.
A dual Victorian shopfront (previously The Alehouse Project) has been spruced up after its days as a craft beer hangout, but reclaimed materials and vintage furniture will nod to its era-spanning atmosphere. The venue is wheelchair-accessible and includes a private lounge and courtyard.
Bespoke cocktails include the Margot Robbie, which features pistachio orgeat syrup and Rhubi mistelle, an Australian spirit made with fermented rhubarb juice. The Vanilla Slice Milk Punch is a slinky mix of Starward whisky, burnt vanilla, fresh passionfruit and brioche. The agave-loving glow shines through in the Sundowner, with mezcal and hopped pineapple sherry.
Grzankowski, who has a long history in hospitality and events, named the new bar after her grandmother.
“She’s a beautiful curly-haired woman in her mid-80s who used to be an army nurse,” she says. “You’d meet her and think she’s a floral-dress-wearing old nan, but she says the funniest things.”
The menu’s New Zealand influence comes courtesy of chef Scott Blomfield, a founder of Pie Thief and previously at Seddon cafe Est.1906 and Fitzroy’s now-closed Grub. The Nibblish section includes kumara chips with Kiwi onion dip (a play on French onion), while Peckish features hangi potato smashies.
There’s also caramelised onion tarte tatin, masterstock-braised lamb ribs, and XO porchetta with smoked pork. Blomfield and sous chef Jess Spooner also have a stake in the business.
“We want people to come in and have a drink, order a heap of food or just a snack, maybe come for a cocktail after dinner at Etta,” says Grzankowski. “There are no restrictions.”
Maggie’s will open in early November.
98-100 Lygon Street, Brunswick East, maggiesbar.com.au
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