‘Hanging by a thread’: The push to save Vancouver’s heritage businesses

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Like all Vancouverites, RJ Aquino is accustomed to seeing the big blue signboards that pop up around town signifying a property may soon be going through a major redevelopment. The day he saw the sign on the 5100-block of Joyce Street, his “heart just dropped.”

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That block is home to a cluster of independent businesses that are “like the connective tissue that binds the Filipino community, as spread out as it might be in the Lower Mainland,” said Aquino, chair of Filipino B.C.

Immediately north of St. Mary’s Parish, which offers regular Tagalog-language masses, and just south of the Joyce-Collingwood SkyTrain station, this block in Vancouver’s southeast corner attracts customers who live and work in several combinations of different Metro municipalities. Its regulars are largely, but not exclusively, Filipino.

Pampanga’s in Vancouver. Photo by Arlen Redekop /PNG

A variety store and a greengrocer sell jackfruit, sweet spaghetti, milkfish, and other products that Filipino immigrants miss from their home country, and also provide services for them to send money to relatives there.

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A trio of Filipino restaurants — Kumare’s, Pampanga’s and Plato Filipino — draw lineups of hungry customers seeking adobo, beef bulalo soup, and deep fried rabbitfish.

Pampanga’s owner Edith Malang recalls the fear and uncertainty that accompanied the appearance of the rezoning sign, about five years ago, promising a new condo tower where the old, unglamorous two-storey building housing her restaurant stands.

“You know who was more worried than I am? My customers,” Malang said. “They complained: ‘What will happen to us? We pick up food and travel back to New Westminster or Surrey on the SkyTrain. Where are we going to buy our favourite food?’”

That development has stalled and the city now considers the project “dormant.” The blue rezoning sign has been taken down, but the wooden frame that supported it is still there.

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That condo project may be on hold, but it’s unlikely redevelopment will spare this block — surrounded by towers in one of the city’s densest neighbourhoods — forever. And the saga speaks to the impact a single redevelopment can have on these small neighbourhood businesses — often run by immigrant families — and the tremendous value they have for communities.

Mel (left) and Edith Malang of Pampanga’s. Photo by Arlen Redekop /PNG

Malang says she’s not opposed to development. But if the property is redeveloped into a mixed-use project, with commercial space on the ground floor and homes in a tower above, she would love to return and operate in the new building. Of course, that’s if she can afford the rent in the new building, she said, but she would at least like the chance before a generic, massive chain retailer takes over the storefront.

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Whether it’s the Punjabi Market’s jewellers, Kitsilano’s Greek tavernas, Chinatown’s fishmongers or Kingsway’s Vietnamese delis, small independent businesses are not only crucial to the ethnocultural communities they serve but to Vancouver’s broader cultural heritage as an immigrant city.
But in Vancouver’s frenzied real estate market, even beloved shops and restaurants are often displaced or destroyed through redevelopment.

City hall has spent several years studying how to help these so-called “legacy businesses” or “heritage businesses,” with much of the focus on one of Vancouver’s most historic neighbourhoods, Chinatown.

Chinatown in Vancouver. Photo by NICK PROCAYLO /PNG

Legacy and heritage

In 2015, San Francisco established a “legacy business program.” It faced many similar pressures to Vancouver, including soaring land values, and sought to preserve the local businesses that the city called the “bedrock of local neighbourhoods and a draw for tourists from around the world.”

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Businesses that had operated in the city for 30 years or longer and “contributed to San Francisco’s history and identity” were invited to apply for inclusion in the city’s legacy business registry, which meant they could apply for grants and receive educational and promotional support.

San Francisco’s legacy business registry — the first of its kind in the U.S. — now includes more than 100 businesses, including galleries, a fortune cookie factory, several dive bars, at least seven pizzerias, a wig store, and the Condor Club, which claims to be the world’s first topless bar.

Inspired by San Francisco, Vancouver launched a study investigating measures to protect Chinatown’s “legacy businesses.”

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After researching San Francisco’s program, the group decided it wouldn’t work for Vancouver to “wholesale adopt their model,” Robinson said. “But one thing I did like about San Francisco, to be honest, is they just sort of shot first, and aimed later. ‘Let’s get something underway, and we’ll figure out how to make it perfect later.’”

Vancouver, on the other hand, has produced several studies and reports over the years, in Chinatown and other neighbourhoods, but has not yet implemented a citywide program like San Francisco’s aimed at supporting culturally significant businesses.

After years of study, Vancouver council approved a five-year pilot program in 2021 called the “special enterprise program.” The program aims to strengthen the “cultural diversity and long-term viability of legacy and community-serving businesses, and non-profit organizations in Chinatown and the Downtown Eastside.”

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Instead of handing grant money directly to businesses as the city does to support non-profits and community groups, the enterprise program has the city provide “capacity-building supports” such as digital and traditional marketing, ecommerce, planning and assistance for physical improvements to commercial spaces. So far, nine small Chinatown businesses have received such support, including Bamboo Village, the Chinese Tea Shop and Kam Wai Dim Sum.

William Liu is co-owner of Kam Wai Dim Sum on East Pender Street in Vancouver’s Chinatown. Photo by Jason Payne /PNG

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The Vancouver plan’s map does not, however, include other areas such as Kitsilano’s Greektown, or the Filipino hub at Joyce-Collingwood, which The Tyee has called “Micro Manila.”
What kinds of businesses should qualify for support? And what constitutes a “heritage business” anyway?

It’s not simple.

Coming up with a definition was an important piece of the Chinatown legacy business study group’s work back in 2017, said Heritage Vancouver executive director Bill Yuen, who also worked on the project. The group ended up choosing to use “heritage business” instead of “legacy business” to reflect the value of more than just age.

The 2017 study defined a heritage business not by age, but as one “shaped by values from a shared past that is recognized and deemed important by the communities of people who value that heritage, frequent the business and/or the area.”

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From left, Guan Ji Hang, Mon Yee Kuang, Carol Lee, Heidi Liang and Ray Loy at Chinatown BBQ restaurant in Vancouver in 2017. Photo by Arlen Redekop /PNG

Vancouver has some good examples of businesses that have opened in just the past few years that could meet such a definition, such as

and

.

These establishments need not be tied to specific ethnicities or neighbourhoods, either. There are non-Chinese heritage businesses in Chinatown, and many Chinese heritage businesses elsewhere.

In 2018, when redevelopment threatened to demolish beloved Cambie Village Italian restaurant Pronto to replace it with a dental office, Heritage Vancouver urged the city to consider the Italian eatery’s value, and explore options to retain it. This was despite the fact that the building, while old, was not on the heritage register, Pronto had been in business for less than 10 years, and the area was not known as an Italian enclave.

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Still, Yuen wrote to the city, Pronto had unquestionably become “a fundamental piece vital to the human network in Cambie Village and the neighbourhood. The demolition of the building and departure of the business will impose a massive cost on the health of this neighbourhood.”

By later that year, Pronto had roasted its last porchetta and mixed its final negroni. The property remains an open excavation site five years later, leaving a literal hole in the neighbourhood.

“It’s this question of living heritage,” Yuen said. “It’s thinking differently about heritage so that it’s not just old stuff. You can have new stuff that speaks to the culture and responds to community needs.”

Outside a store in the Punjabi Market on Main Street and 51st, circa 1984.

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‘Every time a big building goes in, it’s almost exclusively chains’

The intersection of 49th and Main is the centre of Vancouver’s Punjabi Market, recognized as North America’s oldest South Asian community market. On the southwest corner, the one-time landmark All India Sweets and Restaurant, a banquet hall, and two sari and fabric shops were replaced, in a redevelopment completed a few years ago, by Tim Hortons, a Royal Bank, an international chain business and two national fast food chains.

There’s nothing inherently wrong with the new building: The needed new rental homes upstairs brought new residents to the neighbourhood, and the ground-floor businesses seem to be popular.

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“That building could really be plopped down anywhere,” said Vancouver Coun. Pete Fry, who introduced a council motion in 2019 directing city staff to consult with community on how to support the historic Punjabi Market.

Directly across 49th from the new Tim Hortons, the intersection’s northwest corner, a former gas station has been a vacant lot for more than 15 years. Unlike the south corner, its development will not displace any existing businesses.

But the landmark corner will be closely watched.

In December, city hall gave initial approval, subject to conditions, for a developer’s application to build a six-storey building there, with retail space on the ground floor and 94 rental apartments above.
Among other conditions, city hall has asked the developer to provide revised architectural drawings that enhance “the living cultural heritage of the Punjabi Market area,” through potential design strategies including “explore incorporating additional design elements and artwork that reflect the Market’s cultural heritage” and “consider opportunities to provide local-serving retail which functions for the neighbourhood.”

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But the language in the city’s letter to the developer, Hudson Projects, around recognizing the Punjabi Market’s heritage when designing the building and choosing commercial tenants, sound more like suggestions than requirements. — “consider” opportunities, “explore” incorporating.

When developers apply for a rezoning — seeking to build more height and density than would normally be allowed on a property — city hall has more power to negotiate about what goes in there, including public amenities.

“That’s where the magic happens, on a rezoning,” Fry said. “We can say: ‘Hey, we’d like you to do a little bit more with that site.”

In 2020, when a developer sought to rezone a property on the 1200-block of Kingsway for a six-storey building with rental apartments and ground-floor commercial space, Fry introduced an amendment directing city staff to work with the applicant to “protect and enhance the existing retail street character of Little Saigon and its locally serving independent small business.”

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But the developer of the 49th and Main vacant lot, Hudson Projects, is not seeking a rezoning, but instead seeking to build what’s already allowed under current zoning.

That means the city’s directions for the developer are less “binding,” Fry said, but he has had conversations with Hudson and believes “they are the kind of boutique developers that would want to do right by this direction.”

Jag Nagra in the Punjabi Market area. Photo by Francis Georgian /PNG

Hudson’s representatives have also been in talks with the Punjabi Market Collective, a non-profit community group.

The collective’s co-chair, Jag Nagra, says those conversations have been positive, and her group has talked with the developer about the neighbourhood’s history, encouraging them to consider the area’s significance for B.C.’s South Asian community when tenanting the commercial space.

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That doesn’t necessarily mean the future commercial tenants in the Hudson development need to be South Asian, Nagra said. But she would prefer to see interesting, independent businesses that add to the Market’s vibrancy and speak to its history, rather than chains. She would love to see entrepreneurs, especially young South Asian ones, contact Hudson about future leasing opportunities there.

But it’s tricky, Nagra said. After all, it is private property.

“It is something we talked about, but at the end of the day, it isn’t something he has to do,” she said. “We can’t force him to do anything.”

Hudson Projects did not reply to a request for comment.

Many of the longest-running beloved businesses in Vancouver and other cities are in old one- and two-storey buildings along major arterials, which are often prime sites for redevelopment. And, Robinson, the LOCO B.C. director, observed, “It seems like every time a big building goes in, it’s almost exclusively chains” occupying that new street-level commercial space.

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When developers negotiate with city hall around major projects, they discuss public benefits the development could provide, such as child care spaces, public plazas, below-market housing. Robinson would like to see the city seek below-market rents for the ground-floor commercial space for whatever kinds of independent businesses are deemed worthy of that support.

Robinson pointed to Austin, Texas, which has developed city-owned blocks with commercial leases structured to begin at below-market rents for locally owned businesses, which gradually increased over the years to market rates, giving local merchants an opportunity to establish a customer base.

Legislation in the United Kingdom came into effect in 2012, allowing communities to apply to their local council to have a building listed as an “asset of community value.” Councils can approve the listing if they consider the building’s current use (or recent use with the prospect of being revived) to promote the social well-being and interests of the public. Once a building is listed, that places a moratorium on the property’s sale, giving the community up to six months to gather financial resources to bid for the property, if they choose to do so. This could be applied to theatres, shops and, of course, pubs.

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“Things can be done differently,” Robinson said.

As another example of how the city can target certain kinds of businesses for support, Robinson pointed to Vancouver’s council’s decision earlier this year to approve a property tax relief program. The program, which city staff spent years developing, was designed to exclude certain establishments from receiving the benefit, including banks, big box stores, parking lots, and national and international chains.
Last year, council approved a motion from OneCity Coun. Christine Boyle directing staff to draw up recommendations on how to promote “cultural food assets and other forms of intangible cultural heritage,” including how to protect them through the redevelopment process.

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Boyle’s motion was bolstered by research of the approaches in other jurisdictions, including Toronto, the U.K., and Australia. Boyle said she expects a report from staff later this year, as part of Vancouver plan work, but the timing is not clear.

“My strong hope is we do that soon,” Boyle said. “What I hear from all those neighbourhoods is that time is of the essence, we’re losing culturally important businesses and developments are getting approved … that have no specific requirements to respond to the intangible cultural heritage of the neighbourhoods they’re being built in.”

“Businesses are hanging on by a thread and need this support now, not after another strategy and another study.”

Harinder Singh Toor said he’s “seen the ups and downs in the Punjabi Market” in the four decades since he opened Punjab Food Center.

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The 1980s were very busy, before many South Asian businesses, and more of their customers, moved to Surrey, Toor said. For years, his stretch of South Main was plagued by vacant storefronts, he said, but today, the street is livelier.

Redevelopment has brought new residents to the neighbourhood, and his customers today are more diverse than the 1980s, when it was almost only South Asians, he said. Today, there are more Filipino and Mexican immigrants in the neighbourhood, and more Canadian-born customers in the Market.

It’s not easy, but Toor is optimistic.

Toor is glad to see the group of younger community advocates behind the Punjabi Market Collective, like Nagra, picking up the torch.

“We need the young generation … they have lots of energy,” Toor said. “They help us and we help them. We work together.”


In pictures: Archival photos of Vancouver businesses

Fresh by air freight from the south of India, a new box of Sitafal or Custard Apples joins the mangoes displayed at Punjab Food Centre by owner Harinder Singh Toor in 2004. Photo by ian lindsay /Vancouver Sun

Crowds in Chinatown in 1983. Photo by Dan Scott Vancouver Sun photo /PNG

A Chinatown seafood store in 2017 Photo by NICK PROCAYLO /PNG

Chinatown shoppers in Vancouver in 1991. VANCOUVER SUN

Wearing its heritage false front combined the modern trappings of ‘Deli’, ‘Latte’ and ‘5 cent copies’ the Arbutus Market keeps its place proudly at sixth and Arbutus in 1996. Photo by Ian Lindsay /VANCOUVER SUN

Benny’s Market on Union Street in 2006. Photo by Leidenfrost /PROVINCE

1978 photo of Only Seafood restaurant at 20 East Hastings. Photo by Mark van Manen /Vancouver Sun

In 1995, Peter Szasz holds a picture of his father, Mathew, who opened the Szasz’s Deli. Photo by Ian Smith /VANCOUVER SUN

The meat counter at Benny’s, a Strathcona institution since it opened in April 1917, in 2017. Photo by Gerry Kahrmann /PNG

Councillor Alan Herbert smiles about a deal struck to preserve the Ho Ho sign in Chinatown at Pender and Columbia in 1997. Photo by ian lindsay /VANCOUVER SUN

Customers at the Dover Arms Pub on Denman in 1978. Photo by Ken Oakes / Vancouver Sun /PNG

Commercial Drive was one of the original neighbourhood for Italian Canadians to shop and socialize. Caffe Calabria’s Frank Murdocco serves up an espresso in 2000. Photo by Les Bazso /Province

Shoppers at Mihama-Ya in 300-block Powell Street in 1978. Photo by Brian Kent /Vancouver Sun

The Punjabi Market area at 49th Avenue and Main Street in 2000. Photo by Les Bazso /Province

The Punjabi Market area at 49th Avenue and Main Street in 2000. Photo by Les Bazso /Province

Auntie Vie’s Chicken and Steak House on 209 Union St. in 1976. Pictured on the left is Adelene Ellen Alexander Clark. ‘Ma’ to everyone who knew her. Proprietor of what was formerly ‘Vie’s Chicken and Steak Restaurant.’ Also pictured are Her daughter Vie Clark (centre) (named after grandma Vie), and family friend Vesna. Photo by Deni Eagland/ Vancouver Sun. /PNG

Joe Philliponi, Mickey Filippone and Ross Filippone at the Penthouse nightclub in 1968. Photo by Dan Scott /Vancouver Sun

Joe’s Café on Commercial Drive in 2007. Photo by Mark van Manen /Vancouver Sun

Janine Fuller, of Little Sisters book store, in 1997. Photo by David Clark /PROVINCE


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