Getting closer to measuring fashion’s true carbon footprint

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The fashion industry is responsible for 1.8 per cent of global greenhouse gas emissions, according to a report released today by the Apparel Impact Institute (AII) — a significantly lower figure than previous, often-cited estimates of 8 or even 10 per cent.

But that doesn’t mean fashion is off the hook for its emissions. If anything, the authors say, their calculations show that more action is needed, and it’s needed quickly.

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“All sectors, frankly all countries, have to decarbonize — roughly half by 2030, and net zero by 2050,” says Michael Sadowski, sustainability consultant and author of the report. Titled “Taking Stock of Progress Against the Roadmap to Net Zero”, the report is meant to both provide an update of the net zero roadmap that AII and the World Resources Institute published in 2021, and to inspire accelerated action within the fashion industry, in part by highlighting successful case studies where companies that have engaged on emissions reductions have results to show for it.

“We’re seeing significant increases in preferred materials, significant investments in renewable energy and energy efficiency by factory groups and by brands,” says Sadowski. “We do have to hold companies accountable for driving emissions, and obviously we need more of it and more of the industry involved. But I’m cautiously optimistic.”

Compiling data from Textile Exchange, the Sustainable Apparel Coalition and Worldly (formerly Higg Co), Sadowski and the AII research team estimate that emissions from the apparel sector weighed in at 0.897 gigatonnes of carbon dioxide equivalent in 2021 — representing approximately 1.8 per cent of global emissions — which they say is a 0.87 per cent increase from two years prior. That puts the industry on a disastrous path: assuming business-as-usual growth, the report says that fashion’s emissions are projected to reach 1.266 gigatonnes in 2030.

Staying within a 1.5°C trajectory, however, requires the 2030 level to drop — down to at least 0.489 gigatonnes — rather than to climb. And the increase over the last two years is despite the investments fashion has already made in climate actions, showing how much more work the industry still needs to do.

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