Food is love: Far North restaurant owner shares tips on enjoying authentic Italian food

It’s been a tough few years for everyone in the hospitality industry with Covid, staff shortages, inflation and the ongoing cost-of-living crisis keeping customers at home and watching their wallets.

But for the owners of Far North restaurant and winery Sovrano Estate, it’s been particularly brutal as they’ve also had to overcome challenges with a delayed liquor licence which has cost them hundreds of thousands of dollars.

Now Northland restaurateur Andrea Loggia and his wife, Marzia, have turned a corner with their family-owned business and are excited about some upcoming changes to their embattled Italian eatery in Waimate North.

There is a new Italian chef arriving on September 11 who will be planning a fresh menu that includes homemade pasta and many more traditional Italian dishes.

Pizza will be available all week long instead of just four days, and the restaurant and cellar door will also be open seven days a week.

The chef, Gabriele Buchignani, hails from the east coast region of Emilia-Romagna, known for some of the best cuisine in Italy.

“We now have three chefs, so we are expecting to be very busy during summertime,” Loggia said.

“At the moment it’s winter and it’s cold, and we’ve had issues in the past, so we’ve been struggling.

“People are still calling and asking about the licence. Despite what we’re doing some people don’t understand we’re fully licenced now. The liquor licence situation was a disaster for us.”

Loggia, who founded the award-winning Sovrano Limoncello range, bought Ake Ake Vineyard and Restaurant in 2022 and converted the restaurant into an Italian eatery.

But a five-month delay with the liquor licence caused by the Far North District Council meant no alcohol could be served at the restaurant during the peak season which bled the business of around $4000 a day.

Sovrano was granted a licence in February, but not before causing major upset to the Loggias who faced having to sell the business.

Loggia said he is still trying to make it work and, although people want to eat Italian, “they are always choosing fish and chips”.

“For us food is not just feeding your body, it’s feeding the soul as well.

“It’s not just the taste, it’s everything surrounded by the food. It’s the understanding of where it comes from.”

Loggia said Italian cuisine is about socialising and catching up with family and friends during the weekend and after work.

“My mum and dad, we are waking at 6am and starting cooking, because cooking is sharing love, sharing the passion. Sharing is the main word for us because who is cooking for you is loving you.

“It’s not just making food or filling your tummy.

“It’s an expression of your love for people.

“For us food is very important. It’s when you can share your thoughts and talk about what you did during the day.”

How to get the most out of your Italian dining experience

Jenny Ling is a news reporter and features writer for the Northern Advocate. She has a special interest in covering roading, health, food, business and animal welfare issues.