Vito handed down an Italian tradition to his son, and now his granddaughter, to keep it alive

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Martina Iunco is handmaking Italian cheese delicacy burrata at her family’s factory Vannella Cheese in Sydney’s inner west.
The 19-year-old is stretching and filling each round, white cheese and tying it with a topknot, using a traditional Italian technique passed down from her grandfather Vito.

“Being able to make a burrata by hand the way it’s been done for centuries is actually something that I rather enjoy, and it is dear to my heart,” Martina says.

A woman holding a freshly made burrata cheese.

Martina Iunco says making burrata cheese gives her joy. Source: SBS / Sandra Fulloon

Her grandfather Vito Minoia keeps a close watch on her cheese-making skills at his Marrickville factory, safeguarding a business he started in Australia almost 20 years ago after migrating from Italy.

“I remember the first time I made burrata, Vito was very proud. He had a little tear in his eye,” she says.

“He has worked hard to get us to this point, and he is very happy to see us continue his passion.”

I remember the first time I made burrata … he had a little tear in his eye.

– Martina Iunco

Now aged 67, Vito is pleased to be training a third-generation cheese maker.

“Of course I am proud, yes. It makes me very happy,” he says.

What is burrata?

Vito’s cheese-making journey began 50 years ago in Conversano, a town in southern Italy’s Puglia region.

Vito Minoia making cheese in Italy.

Vito Minoia learned how to make burrata in Puglia, Italy, where the cow milk cheese hails from. Source: Supplied / Vannella Cheese.

Burrata is an Italian cow milk cheese with an outer casing of solid cheese, and a soft, buttery centre of mozzarella and cream known as stracciatella.

Puglia is the home of burrata cheese and, as a 16-year-old, Vito first learned to stretch the curd during an apprenticeship with a local master cheese maker.

“Back then everything was done by hand, and it was hard work,” he says.

 Vito Minoia making cheese in Italy with his wife Pina.

Vito Minoia says making burrata by hand years ago was “hard work”. Source: Supplied / Vannella Cheese

“The burrata we made then was large, around half a kilo each. And we made it freshly every day.

“The milk came in the morning and the burrata was on the table by lunchtime,” he says.

Vito’s day still starts before dawn, preparing cow and buffalo milk for a range of Italian-style cheeses to be delivered fresh daily to restaurants and supermarkets across Australia.

Vito Minoia (left) standing with his son, Guiseppe.

Vito Minoia (left) and his son Guiseppe process up to two tons of cheese every day. Source: SBS / Sandra Fulloon

His son Guiseppe works by his side, and the pair make a formidable team.

“We process 60,000 litres of milk and the factory produces up to two tons of cheese every day,” says Guiseppe, 38.

“This year we hope to turn over more than eight million dollars’ worth, which is a lot of cheese.”

Burrata cheese on a plate with sliced tomato.

Burrata is an Italian cow milk cheese with an outer casing of solid cheese and a soft, buttery centre. Source: SBS / Sandra Fulloon

There’s a generous side to this family business as well. In recent years, they have delivered surplus ricotta and mozzarella to local women’s shelters and charities.

“I like to do things for the community,” Vito says. “And with higher living costs, this year there’s more need than ever.”

Financing a family business

Rising costs are also impacting the business, with power bills surpassing $30,000 per quarter and milk prices soaring.

It’s an issue impacting many family businesses and putting some at risk, according to Australian Small Business and Family Enterprise Ombudsman (ASBFEO) Bruce Billson.

“The small and family business community tends not to have the deep pockets of the big corporates,” he says.
“And there is international research suggesting markets consolidate in challenging times.

“That means the big get bigger because they have access to other resources. They may have shareholders they can tap, or a greater capacity to borrow and access finance in ways that a smaller and family business may not.”

According to Family Business Australia, 70 per cent of all businesses in Australia are run by families.
“Multi-generational family businesses are not just in it for the short term. They think generationally, and can really provide strong foundations for business growth, for connections with communities and customers.”
The Minoia family plan further upgrades to their Marrickville business, despite growing competition among Italian-style cheese producers in Australia.

“We wouldn’t be able to make enough burrata to supply the whole Australian market, so it’s good that other people are producing it now,” Guiseppe says.

Martina (left) clinking Prosecco in glasses with Vito (centre) and Guiseppe.

The Minoia family will this week celebrate Vito’s cheese-making achievements. Source: SBS / Sandra Fulloon

This month, to celebrate Vito’s half-century achievement (the exact date of which fell in November but clashed with a factory move) the Minoia family have a special event planned for friends and clients at Sydney’s Carriageworks.

“Fifty years of cheese making in one job is a long time,” says Guiseppe.

“Not many marriages last 50 years, so we are definitely very proud.”

Vito says he has no plans to retire.
“No, no I am not stopping yet. I want to keep going as long as I can,” he says
For Martina, whose cheese-making journey has just started, there is great pride in preserving an Italian family tradition for the future.
“Vito has trusted me to keep going with what he’s built up,” she says.
“So, I am very happy that we can celebrate him and what he started, and also celebrate what we are proud to continue.”
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