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While some coffee producers simply farm the crop to make ends meet until they can sell the land, Blackford seeks to support those striving to produce higher quality crops, have a greater impact on their community, and “stay after it” long-term with the reward of higher payments through direct relationships.
Caputo strives to source products with the same intention. “[Our farmers] have had financial struggles. Even with elite cacao that gets famous, not enough money makes it down to the farmer,” he says. “We talk about fair trade, but it doesn’t do the trick. More needs to be done, even for these famous farmers.”
The cacao preservation program exists to create a system that is more equitable, Caputo claims. “To have a cacao that is this unique and tastes like this, it takes someone who has studied and practiced their whole life to do agriculture this way. As a chocolate geek, when I taste a product made with Beniano cacao, I’m like, ‘This is really special. This needs to be preserved.’”
The future of small, sustainable agriculture
Both Blackford and Caputo hope to inspire the youth of the local regions they support to become farmers, as preserving Indigenous processes can help promote biodiversity and inspire landowners to turn their land into fertile farming grounds instead of selling it off for development.
Cacao growing conditions are fragile. According to NOAA Climate, the plant can only be grown 20 degrees north or south of the equator. It becomes even more of a rarity when companies continue to cut down the rainforests where cacao grows.
“Ever since modern-day agriculture, the biodiversity of these very unique things are being squeezed out consistently,” Caputo says. “If we don’t work to preserve it, we will see these lost forever. Once they’re gone, they’re gone.”
From their visits to coffee producers in various countries, Blackford and his team realized that some coffee producers have a need for tools that they either don’t have access to or can’t afford. At Wasatch Roasting Company, Blackford has set up a “producer tip” option and offers products made from the jute bags his unroasted coffee beans arrive in. The proceeds of these sales go back to producers like Chaosuwanwilai.
“All our support for Goh and his efforts is about his story, impact and efforts in continuing to teach and provide jobs for his community,” Blackford says. “That’s what we’re most interested in supporting. And by the way, the coffee is excellent.”
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