Britain’s emerging designers in coronation conflict

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From Burberry’s coronation scarf to rumours of Kate Middleton wearing Alexander McQueen to the service, Britain’s biggest luxury players are suiting up for King Charles’s coronation. But the event is divisive: this week, an Instagram post by model and activist Munroe Bergdorf criticising the excess of the coronation in the face of the cost of living crisis was shared widely by British fashion insiders. It exposed a debate beneath the surface of the UK industry — particularly among younger designers — over whether to participate in the celebrations.

“Most of the designers I know have a fundamental ideological opposition to the idea of a hereditary monarchy, and consequently aren’t interested in the cash incentive [of using it as a marketing moment],” says Gen Z favourite fashion commentator Benji Park. 

The bank holiday weekend is forecast to generate up to £50 million in London’s West End as domestic and international visitors flood to the UK capital, according to business association New West End Company. “Uniquely British events, such as the King’s coronation, show our capital at its very best,” said Dee Corsi, chief executive of New West End Company, in a statement. 

Proponents see the coronation as an opportunity to connect with consumers, including in markets outside of the UK, such as the Middle East, US and China, which tend to be more favourable to Royal content. 

Patrick McDowell’s Autumn/Winter 2023 collection, “Cinderella Shall Go To the Football”, redefined the hypermasculine world of football with queerness.

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway



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